A day out on Lake Garda

Malcesine has been our base for a week on Lake Garda. It’s been a relatively laid back holiday compared to some where we’ve been frequently on the move, but there has still been plenty to keep us interested. The town itself is an excellent base, with plenty of cobbled streets, shops, bars and restaurants and several lake front locations to sit, eat or drink, including our hotel, the Excelsior Bay, the view from whose terrace is shown above. A delightful spot for breakfast or an evening drink

We explored the area around the town on foot, walking several miles in either direction – north and south – on the excellent lakeside paths. We also took the cable car to the top of Monte Baldo, the ferry across the lake to Limone and a full day excursion sailing the lake, with stops in Sirmione and Bardolino. Here’s a flavour of what there is to discover in this beautiful part of Italy.

We first walked south, through the region of the val di sogno, through Cassone and as far as Brenzano. Looking south as you are, the mountainous nature of the scenery on both sides of the lake is evident. On the return journey, the view of the castle towering over the town is spectacular.

On another day we walked north of the town, from where the views across the lake to Limone opened up. Once again, the castle’s unassailable position is evident.

Limone will provide the first stop on our tour of the lake. But before, it’s worth looking quickly at a map showing the lay of the land.

It’s immediately noticeable that the north end of the lake, where we are staying, is very long and narrow, while the southern reaches which include Sirmione and Bardolino are much wider. The other main geographical difference is that the northern regions are much more mountainous.

The best way to appreciate this is to take the cable car all the way (2218m) to the top of Monte Baldo, which towers over Malcesine.

From the ridge, a view south shows the lake opening up…

…while a view north shows how abruptly, and in a strangely ‘squared off’ manner, the lake ends at Riva del Garda.

Of course, there are two sides to a mountain ridge and the valley on the other side of Monte Baldo is beautiful.

The other site from which to appreciate the place of Malcesine in its environs is the castle. Like most buildings of its type it has a long history dating back through the centuries. The oldest part, the central tower, is from the time of the Lombard rulers of the 13th century, the Scaglieri. The surrounding keep is from the Venetian rule of the 15th century and in the lower reaches are some buildings from the Austrian occupation of the 19th century.

From the ramparts there are majestic views south over the town and north towards lake’s end at Riva.

So, let’s take to the water. Limone is a 20-minute hop across the lake and many people make use of the frequent ferries. It’s a busy little town, delightful to explore for a few hours but somewhat frenetic, an impression contributed to by the distinct impression of it being squeezed in at the foot of towering cliff faces.

The view from one of the many lemon groves back across the lake to Malcesine gives a great sight of the massive peaks of Monte Baldo.

Having enjoyed a short trip across the lake we decided to take a full day tour all the way to the south of the lake which included decent time to explore both Sirmione and Bardolino. The route went down the west coast, across the south of the lake and back up the east coast, taking in several viewpoints en route.

As we headed along the east coast, south from Limone, the lakeside mountains remained vertiginous, with small hamlets perched perilously aloft linked by roads which appeared to defy gravity.

After half an hour we came to Gargagno, where Mussolini and his family resided between 1943 and 1945. The villa, built between 1892 and 1899, is now a luxury hotel.

As the boat headed south, the landscape was changing and the terrain adjacent to the lake becoming less mountainous.

The lake was also widening, a clue to this being the unexpected appearance of a slice of land which, on approach, revealed itself to be an island, the Isola del Garda.

Initially somewhat unimpressive on approach, as we turned round the other side it was revealed in its glory – a private complex with extensive gardens and a sumptuous Venetian style villa!

It wasn’t long before we approached Sirmione, a resort at the end of a 4km spit of land projecting into the southern reaches of the lake. It is one of the most popular towns on Lake Garda and had a rather touristy vibe and crowds which somewhat diminished its appeal. The castle dates to a similar Lombard period to the one in Malcesine, again overlorded by the Scaglieri, and is very similar in construction. The town also has a waterfront area, beach and pleasant gardens.

Sailing on, after a welcome two hour stop ashore, we passed the Roman ruins at the Grotte di Catullo.

Immediately on passing this point we turned ninety degrees and were now sailing direct across the southern reaches of the lake towards Bardolino on the eastern shore.

Bardolino is most famous for the wine it produces. It benefits from being much quieter and less touristy than Sirmione, but an hour was more than adequate to take in the lakefront, the few shops in the streets behind and the short walk past the ferris wheel to the public park.

We were now on the final part of the tour, sitting back and enjoying the scenery slipping by. We passed some villas near Garda and then the fortifications at Torri del Benaco.

Should you be considering the Italian Lakes for a holiday, we would definitely recommend Lake Garda. Malcesine is an excellent base, well provided with sights, accommodation and restaurants. It nicely balances catering to the needs of the visitor without veering towards cheap taste. The prices were surprisingly reasonable and the food of generally very high quality, particularly the seafood. Go early, about six, to get the choice of your lakefront table, relax and enjoy. Ciao!